018 Cowbells & Clouds

From fog-draped Rigi to sunlit Weggis, a day of shifting skies and steady joy.

πŸ“… July 22, 2025

We left Lucerne on foot, choosing to walk instead of catching the bus. The city was already buzzing β€” traffic humming, church bells ringing, and shopkeepers sweeping their stoops. Our first surprise was a quiet little park tucked off the busy road, shaded by tall trees and graced with a fountain. Across the street, the spire of Lucerne’s Pauluskirche cathedral pierced the cloudy morning sky.

Coffee was next, of course. Kaffeekranz sat tucked between two tall apartment blocks, hidden down a quiet walkway. Their beans β€” humorously branded Lucky Bastards, Tasty Beans β€” filled the air with a rich aroma. I ordered a flat white, while Alina and Jonas picked out something sweet. We sat outside under the gray skies, savoring the calm. As the German sign outside read, it ist immer time fΓΌr einen einen good kaffee β€” It is always time for a good coffee.

“It is always time for a good coffee”

From there, we wound our way to the Lucerne train station, grabbed snacks at Migros, and boarded a train along the west side of Lake Lucerne. The ride was stunning β€” emerald waters flashing between trees, with villages nestled into the slopes. At Arth-Goldau, we transferred to the cogwheel train that climbed steadily into the clouds toward Rigi.

The higher we went, the denser the fog. At the summit, we stepped out into the cold mist β€” no sweeping panorama, just the damp hush of clouds wrapping everything tight. We took photos, but the views stayed hidden. So we shrugged, laughed, and boarded another train down the mountain.

At Rigi Kaltbad, we were below the clouds just enough to reveal the lake below. We unpacked a picnic in the courtyard, adding a plate of fries from a cafΓ© for good measure. Jonas spotted a small playground and was thrilled.

Later, we discovered Rigiland, where we found another playground perched on a hillside with spectacular views through the trees. Beyond the swings and slides, cows grazed against a backdrop of lake and mountains. It felt like stepping into a pastoral painting.

Later, a cable car carried us down to Weggis, a lakeside town bathed in sunshine. The shift was instant: coastal warmth, bright colors, streets humming with holiday energy. We stopped for ice cream and a beer before walking to the harbor, where we joined a crowd waiting for the boat.

When the ferry finally arrived, it was packed, but we found space along the starboard deck. Downstairs, we discovered a hidden gem β€” a chamber styled after the Nautilus from 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. Murals, portholes, even a small screen playing the old Disney movie. It was whimsical, unexpected, and wonderful.

Back on deck, we leaned against the rail, sun on our faces and wind in our hair, as the boat threaded its way through villages and coves. The skies shifted between blue and cloudy, but the mood stayed light. By the time we docked in Lucerne, we were tired and ready for rest.

Back at the apartment, Alina and Jonas unwound while I wandered the streets alone, picking up dinner. The wrought-iron signs, the curve of the Reuss River, the character of Lucerne at dusk β€” it was a quiet feast for the eyes. I brought kebabs home from Old City Takeaway, and we ended the day together in comfort.

πŸ™οΈ Highlights of the Day

  • Rigi Summit – Fog and chill, but a chance to laugh at the clouds.
  • Rigi Kaltbad & Rigiland – Playgrounds, cowbells, and lake views peeking through.
  • Weggis Boat Ride – Sunshine, lake breezes, and a whimsical Nautilus cabin.

🧳 Parenting & Perspective

Clouds may have blocked the views, but not Jonas’ spirit. He stayed optimistic, eager for every playground, every climb, every discovery. His openness reminded us: sometimes the day isn’t about what you see, but how you receive it.

And as parents, we learned (again) that a simple compromise β€” a sweet treat here, a playground stop there β€” goes a long way in keeping the family mood light.


πŸ›οΈ Travel Tips

  • Rigi Railways: Free with the Tell-Pass. Trains run from Arth-Goldau and Vitznau; cable cars from Weggis.
  • Picnics: Bring your own snacks but budget for fries or hot drinks at Rigi Kaltbad.
  • Boat Ride: Lake Lucerne ferries connect Rigi and Weggis back to Lucerne β€” check seasonal timetables. These are also covered by the Tell-Pass.
  • In Lucerne: Kebabs are a reliable, affordable dinner option after long days.

✨ Favorite Quote or Moment

Jonas playing overlooking cows in the pasture and a lake and mountains in the background. Cowbells ringing…


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