A day of dragons, river walks, and one last taste of Swiss comfort.
📅 July 23, 2025
Our last full day in Switzerland dawned with a sense of déjà vu — almost a repeat of Pilatus, but this time under clearer skies. This Wednesday, clouds lingered above, but no rain was forecast, which felt like a blessing after so many misty days.
We hopped on the bus straight from our apartment and rode back to the Pilatus gondola, passing the first stop, Krienseregg, and heading for the second station, Fräkmüntegg. Just below the cloud line, we looked back on sweeping views of Lake Lucerne and the city below.
To give Jonas something new, we strapped into harnesses and rode the Dragon Glider — a suspended rail ride through the forest canopy. It felt like swooping through dragon wings, gliding between treetops with a rush of cool alpine air.
From there, Jonas and I queued for the Fräkigaudi summer toboggan run—the longest of its kind in Switzerland at 1,350 meters (0.84 miles). The line crept forward for almost two hours, but once we finally slid into our two-person wheeled sled, all that waiting vanished. We navigated sharp bends, dove through “dragon holes” (tunnels), and used a hand break to control the speed—all while the Alpine air whipped past us and we yelled overlooking the lake far below. It was definitely a thrilling highlight– part mountain magic.
Later, we discovered Drachenalp, a cozy wooden oasis perched below Fräkmüntegg — part rustic picnic spot, part dragon’s lair.
Here, at a spacious barbecue area, families are invited to ignite their own fires. Guests can pick up a barbecue bag from the kiosk — complete with a sausage (Cervelat, bratwurst, or veggie skewer), bun, mustard, drink, and even a voucher for ice cream — and grill right where they stand, with panoramic mountain views as the backdrop .
We built our meal right there. Flames crackled. Smoke curled into the alpine air. Our sausages sizzled. Surrounded by view and quiet, that slow, smoky picnic — cooked, eaten, and shared at Drachenalp — quietly became the day’s most unforgettable highlight.
Jonas remembered the Wipfelpfad from our first, rainy trip to Pilatus. Back then, he had scampered through the netted tree path while the rest of us stayed dry on the sidelines. This time, he turned to Alina with that same spark in his eye and urged her to try it.
At first she was reluctant. The idea of swaying rope bridges high above the forest floor didn’t exactly call to her. But eventually, with Jonas cheering her on, she stepped onto the rope walkway. One bridge, then another, her hands steady, her focus set. The maze twisted from tree to tree, and she pressed forward with quiet determination.
By the time she stepped onto the last platform, she stood taller — smiling, proud, and a little surprised at herself.
With the day’s adventures done, we descended by gondola, grateful for sunshine instead of rain. Back in town, we returned to Kaffeekranz for flat whites, chocolate cake, and a pause before the evening.
That night, I made a reservation at Pfistern Restaurant, right on the Reuss River. Our table sat just beside the water, and it was beautiful. Jonas devoured his chicken nuggets and fries, Alina enjoyed spring rolls, and I finally got my long-awaited Swiss fondue. With hot potatoes, cubes of bread, and a bubbling pot of cheese, it was a moment of food redemption after the disappointment in Mürren.
We lingered by the river afterward with ice cream from a nearby gelateria, watching ducks and the soft sunset reflected on the water.
By evening, the family was ready to head back, but I urged us to push a little farther. So, we continued down along the river, the chapel bridge, and up the street. The reward was worth it: the Hofkirche St. Leodegar, Lucerne’s grand twin-towered church, standing solemnly at the top of a cobblestone climb.
The climb up left us slow and tired, but the sight at the top was worth every step. Hofkirche towered above us, its twin spires cutting into the sky, commanding presence over the city below. Standing there, the church felt less like just another landmark and more like a reminder of Lucerne’s deep, centuries-old heartbeat of faith.
We paused before the massive wooden doors, traced with centuries of stories. The left panel shows Saint Leodegar—a French bishop and one of Lucerne’s patron saints, famously blinded with a drill—and on the right, Saint Maurice, a Roman soldier-saint and martyr . Their carved faces looked down at us, solemn and timeless.
From the Hofkirche, we wandered down Hirschmattstrasse, following its slope toward the heart of Lucerne. The path led us to Picturesque Old Town squares, like Hirschenplatz. Along the way, we passed wrought-iron signs dangling above shopfronts, fountains topped with curious statues, and cobblestone streets that felt almost theatrical in their storybook charm.
Back at the apartment, we began the bittersweet task of packing up — Switzerland slowly becoming memory, even as we tried to hold on.
🏙️ Highlights of the Day
- Dragon Glider & Toboggan Ride – Flying through the treetops and speeding downhill at Pilatus.
- BBQ Picnic – Sausages grilled over open flames with a lake view.
- Fondue at Last – A riverside table and my long-awaited bubbling pot of cheese.
🧳 Parenting & Perspective
Travel is equal parts thrill and farewell. Jonas reminded us of that today — brave on rides, playful at dinner, optimistic even in long waits. Alina’s courage in the treetop maze showed how adventure pushes all of us, in our own ways.
For me, sharing fondue by the river was more than a meal — it was closure. One last taste of Switzerland’s heart before we said goodbye.
🏛️ Travel Tips
- Dragon Glider & Toboggan – Located at Fräkmüntegg station on Pilatus. Dragon Glider: approx. CHF 8/adult, CHF 6/child; Fräkigaudi Toboggan: approx. CHF 9/adult, CHF 7/child. Expect lines—go early if you can.
- Picnic BBQs – Bring cash for raw sausages and enjoy a DIY alpine grill with views.
- Restaurant Pfistern – Book a table early to get riverside seating. Fondue available after 6pm.
- Old Town Lucerne – Don’t miss the Chapel Bridge, Hofkirche, and murals tucked into narrow lanes.
✨ Favorite Quote or Moment
“Daddy, can we grill our own sausages?” — Jonas, grinning as he watched the sausage sputter on the fire, like it was the greatest adventure of all.
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