The Tullmann Travels

Grindelwald First trek, snowball skirmish, evening Mürren alphorn concert.

📅 July 9, 2025

By Wednesday, we had almost overcome our lingering jet lag. We woke early in Mürren, ate breakfast, and stepped out into the crisp morning air—our first clear day in Switzerland. We were ready to make the most of it.

🚆 The Daily Commute

Every adventure starts the same way, with this familiar but scenic series of transfers:

1. 🚶🏻 5-minute walk to Mürren train station
2. 🛤️ 5-minute train to Grütschalp
3. 🚠 4-minute cable car to Lauterbrunnen
4. 🚶🏻 2-minute walk to the train station
5. 🚉 40-minute train to our final destination

This time, our destination was Grindelwald, one of our favorite places in the Berner Oberland region. We arrived at the bustling station under a deep blue sky and headed straight through the village toward one of our favorite cafés—Eiger Bean Café. The sun was shining, the air was crisp, and the espresso was just right. I chatted with the owner about specialty coffee in Europe, and he recommended an app to help discover hidden coffee gems.

After coffee, we walked to a nearby church to pause and pray before heading uphill for a big day.

🚠 To the Top

Using our Berner Oberland passes, we boarded the 30-minute gondola to Grindelwald First, where sweeping views of the Eiger and its glacier opened up around us. This mountaintop was the site of one of our favorite hikes from 2023 (…and my drone disaster).

When we reached the summit, the temperature dropped, and our goal was clear: hike to Bachsee Lake—again. This time, the experience felt different. Jonas had done this hike with us two years ago, when he was six, and it had been filled with tears, breaks, and pep talks. But today, he was leading the charge—running ahead, cracking jokes, and daring us to follow him higher.

He set his sights on the snowy peaks above the lake and lured us onward with playful ambition and the promise of a snowball fight. Alina and I were worn out, but Jonas’s enthusiasm was contagious. Eventually, we found a fewsnowbank near the trail, and—true to his plan—Jonas ambushed us. Laughter echoed through the peaks as snowballs flew.

As we turned back, the trail revealed one of the most stunning views of the entire trip. The mountains, the light, the moment—it was breathtaking.

At the lake’s edge, we found shale rockslides—perfect for skipping stones. I showed Jonas how to do it, and soon we were standing on the shoreline of an alpine lake, counting skips on crystal-clear water. A fellow hiker told us it was the perfect spot for beginners. He was right.

🎢 Down, Then Up Again

We returned to the Grindelwald First Center and took on the First Cliff Walk—a suspended metal walkway bolted to the cliffside. The open grates underfoot made for a thrilling view straight to the valley below. Nerve-wracking? A bit. Worth it? Absolutely.

We celebrated at the Berggasthaus First self-serve restaurant with soup, chicken nuggets, bratwurst, fries, beer, and chocolate cake.

But the day wasn’t over.

When we reached the gondola station to head back down, we were met with bad news: the gondola had stopped. The line grew longer and longer. We took turns holding our place while Jonas rested on a bench, reading quietly.

As we waited, I imagined the alternative: hiking down steep trails that would take a seasoned hiker 3 hours… but with a tired 8-year-old, probably 5–6 hours. Thankfully, the gondola powered back on, and though our Berner Oberland Pass didn’t cover the ride down, we used our Swiss Half-Fare Card to get a discounted return.

Back in Grindelwald, completely exhausted, we made one final stop: Swiss gelato—the ultimate recovery tool. Then began the hour-and-a-half journey back to Mürren.

🎶 A Night of Music

Alina and Jonas crashed early, but I still had a little energy left in the tank. On Wednesday nights in Mürren, the village comes alive with traditional folk music: alphorns, yodeling, brass bands, and accordion. I headed out solo and grabbed a schnitzel sandwich and drink while soaking in the music.

There was something deeply relaxing about being there on my own—no conversations, no parenting, just me and the music. After a long day of pushing through mountains, it felt good to just be.

As I walked home past sunset, the light still kissed the peaks around me. It was the perfect close to a full day—Bachsee and brass bands, snowballs and schnitzel, views and quiet joy.