The Tullmann Travels

Early Interlaken coffee, Lake Brienz cruise, and misty Giessbach cascade hike.

📅 July 8, 2025

On Tuesday, we woke at 3:30 a.m.—wide-eyed, jetlagged, and unable to fall back asleep. But instead of stewing, we decided to embrace it. It was our first full day out exploring, even if it promised to be a rainy one.

We threw on our gear and walked up the damp morning streets to the Mürren train station, our daily starting point. From there, a short ride took us to the Grütschalp cable car, which carried us down into the Lauterbrunnen Valley. At 6:30 a.m., we boarded the train to Interlaken, the skies still dark and moody.

Once in town, we caught a bus through the charming and rainy streets of Interlaken—nestled perfectly between two vast lakes. We made our way toward one of our favorite coffee spots, Aarburg Hotel & Café, only to find it didn’t open until 8:00. Fortunately, the bakery next door was open, so we snagged pastries and waited inside at a table for the cafe to open.

When Aarburg finally opened, we took our time savoring some of the best coffee in the region. After enjoying the warm drinks, we headed back to the train station and made our way toward the boat docks on Lake Brienz.

By then, the rain was coming down hard, and the wind whipped across the water. We queued up early to board the boat and were grateful to find a cozy, panoramic window table in the onboard restaurant. The brilliant blue-green glow of Lake Brienz shimmered even through the clouds. It was stunning.

We ordered drinks and took turns braving the deck for photos. The rain stopped, though the skies stayed moody and dramatic. Jonas enjoyed looking out at the lake—eventually. At first, the wet walk and gray skies had dampened his spirit. But I’ve discovered a parenting secret: raspberry syrup + fizzy water is a magic reset button. After that sweet treat, Jonas perked up, began laughing again, and took in the views with fresh eyes.

The boat made several stops, but we waited for Giessbach. Once there, we took the steep funicular up to the historic Grandhotel Giessbach, nestled beside a multi-tiered waterfall crashing down from the cliffs above. Because of the rain, the waterfall was raging—spectacular and deafening.

We climbed the winding trail beside the falls, crossing narrow bridges and catching icy blasts of mist. One section even led us behind the waterfall itself. Jonas, in particular, shined on this hike. He’s reached a new level of endurance and confidence—running ahead, calling for us to catch up. Not long ago, hikes like this would drain him emotionally and physically, but today he pushed himself with excitement and pride. I love this role reversal and hope to harness it for future adventures.

We returned to the hotel hoping to grab lunch, but it was still too early for food service. We would’ve missed the next boat if we waited, so we opted to walk back down the forest trail instead and wait lakeside.

By now, the skies were clearing, and sun began to shine on the turquoise lake—transforming the mood of the day. Our next boat was busier, but we still found spots and rode all the way to Brienz, arriving around 1:30 p.m.

We were hungry and ready for comfort food. Following a ChatGPT tip (😉), we found Hotel Steinbock Restaurant, where we devoured fish and chips, nettle soup, barley soup, and a plate of fries. It was just what we needed after hours of hiking and exploring.

From there, we caught a train back to Interlaken, stopping at Coop, the giant Swiss grocery chain. Compared to our tiny store in Mürren, this one felt like Costco. We stocked up on supplies for several days, lugged our bags to the station, and started the familiar journey home—train, cable car, mountain views.

Back in Mürren, we were tired and content. What had started as a gray, rainy morning turned into one of the most surprising and fun days of our trip—coffee, boats, waterfalls, and raspberry soda.

Sometimes the best travel memories come from saying “yes” to a messy day—and discovering beauty on the other side.